Magneblaster

INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAKING YOUR OWN 200AMP MAGNEBLASTER

Click here to download the full schematic (740kb file) for the Magneblaster. To view the schematic, you will need the free Acrobat reader, version 4.0, available for download here.

  1. Purchase the following items shown in photo (1). Below is a list of these items from left to right and top to bottom:
    Photo 1
    • 1-8ft (longer if you want) roll of #10 gauge black primary wire. (automotive store)
    • 1-8ft (longer if you want) roll of #10 gauge red primary wire. (automotive store)
    • 1-package of Red Snap In 12VDC lamps. RadioShack pt# 272-332C
    • 1-package of Green Snap In 12VDC lamps. RadioShack pt# 272-337A
    • 1-pack of 12 to 10 gauge 3/8" wire rings. (remove the plastic insulating sleeve from 4 of them)
    • 1-pack of 12 to 10 gauge 1/4" wire rings. (remove the plastic insulating sleeve from 2 of them)
    • 1-solid brass 8/32 machine screw with nut, flat washer and locking washer. (hardware store)
    • 2-1/4-20 x 3/4 inch screws with nuts, flat washers and locking washers. (hardware store)
    • 1-12VDC Piezo. (RadioShack)
    • 1-Project Enclosure 7x5x3. (RadioShack pt# 270-1807)
    • 2-sets of 30amp insulated clips. (make sure the pinching ends are flat and not curved) i.e. ( ) NO ][ YES
    • 1-12VDC Ford Starter Relay for a 1990 Ford Crown Vic. (This starter relay contains an internal clamping diode that is needed to protect the launching system your using from damage upon field collapse of the primary coil windings after de-activation of the starter relay.) DO NOT USE ANYTHING ELSE!
    • 1-pack of 4 rectifiers (diodes) 6amp. (RadioShack pt# 276-1661)

  2. Tools you will need:
    1. 100w or higher soldering gun.
    2. Roll of 60/40 soldier from RadioShack
    3. Wire cutter/stripper/clamping tool.
    4. Ice pick
    5. Electric drill or better yet a drill press.
    6. 1/2", 1/4", 3/16" and 1/16" drill bits.
    7. Bench vise.
    8. Protective goggles.
    9. Volt/ohm meter

  3. LETS BEGIN:
    Photo 2
    Drill two 3/16 holes in each long end of the of the project box about 1 inch apart midway up in the center of the box. Refer to photo number (2). Cut 3 feet off both the black and red primary wire using the remaining wire for the connection to the igniter cluster. Thread the wire through the holes you just made in the box. Keep the polarity even ie. red to red - black to black as you pass the wires through the box. Strip about 3/8" of insulation from both ends of all the wires. Now clamp and solder the 3/8 rings on all four ends of the wire that are inside the project box.

  4. Take one of the clamps and temporarly remove one of the insulating sleeves by sliding it onto the wire that you are about to solder it to. Now mount the clamp in the vise. While in the vise use the ice pick to widen the loop where the wire is to pass through before soldering. (If needed) Once widened you should be able to pass the wire through the loop and solder it to the clamp. Repeat this step until all the clamps have been soldered to there respective wires. Remember as before black to black and red to red.

  5. Place the starter relay inside the project box with the mounting bracket facing the side closest to where the Black wire leads are located. Mark where the holes are needed then drill two 1/4 holes at these locations. See photo (2 and 3). Mount the starter relay and black wire rings together using the 1/4-20 screws, flat washers, locking and nuts as shown in photo (3).

  6. Attach
    Photo 3
    the red wire 3/8" rings to the starter relay as shown in photo (3).

  7. Drill a 3/16" hole in the opposite side of the project box from the starter relay. Cut a short piece of red wire, strip the ends and crimp & solder a 1/4" ring to each end. Attach this between the terminal marked "S" on the starter relay (the "R" terminal if equipped is not used) and the solid brass machine screw as shown in photo (4) and (5).

  8. Drill a 1/2" hole about 1 1/2" from each end of the aluminum top from the project box. Score the middle and drill a 1/4" hole for the wires from the piezo to pass through. Use the piezo to find the location of where you need to drill the two 1/16" holes for the mounting screws by placing it squarly in the middle of the aluminum project box top. See photo (4)
    Photo 4

  9. Insert the green snap in light on the left side closest to the 3ft length wires going to the car battery. Insert the red snap in light on the right side closest to the 5ft length wires going to the igniter cluster. Mount the warning pezio. See photo's (5 and 6)

  10. Using one of the 6amp diodes, solder the end that faces away from the round silver marking to the 3/8" ring that is connected to the red wire at the starter relay. See photo (4). At the other end of the diode solder one end of the green snap in light it does not matter which wire. Now take the remaining end of the green light and solder it to the 3/8" ring mounted on starter relay mounting bolt. The purpose of using a diode is to let you know if you have properly connected the postive and negative clamps at the car battery. If you haven't then the green light will not eluminate. Also if the polarity is reversed and you activate the relay the piezo could be damaged since it is polarity sensative.

    Photo 5 Photo 6

  11. Take the (-) wire side of the piezo and one wire from the red snap in light and solder them to the 3/8" ring mounted on the starter relay. Now take the (+) wire side of the pezio and the remaining wire from the red snap in light and solder them to the 3/8 ring mounted on the red wire at the starter relay facing the 5ft wire leads going to the igniters. See photo (4) The Piezo and Red light serve as a warning that the sytem is in the firing mode! If you see or hear either the piezo or the red light DO NOT CONNECT THIS UNIT TO YOUR IGNITERS! Find and correct the problem. Fasten down the lid using the provided screws. This completes the construction of the MagneBlaster. Now lets explore using it. Remember that this unit is an add on for an approved existing launch system that is using nothing less than a car battery. You will be using their car battery and their igniter lead to power up the MagneBlaster. (See photo 7)
    Photo 7
    Using a voltmeter you will need to determine which of their two igniter launching wires is (+) as this will be the one you hook up to the solid brass machine screw on the MagneBlaster. Some launching systems do not use a power source at the LCO desk to power there launching circuitry independantly but instead rely upon power from the battery at the launch pad. If this is the case be aware that your unit is going to dump a heavy load on their battery and the LCO may loose the power and ability to hold down your relay in the firing mode. Also consider that if they do not have a fully charged car battery then you will not receive full power to your unit. Since this unit is not fused make sure that the clamps at the igniter end are never allowed to come in contact with each other. You may want to use Nomex (high temp cloth) to protect the lead wires going to your igniter cluster. Finally. Can you say SMOKIN!. Photo (7) was taken right at the moment of ignition. I used a piece of 22awg solid copper duplex lead wire wrapped together at both ends. The MagneBlaster fried these wires in two faster than I could take the photo.

Disclaimer: This information is provided free as a service to the rocketry community. No responsibility is expressed or implied on behalf of Rocketflite/Magnelite or its employees. Build and use at your own risk. We do, however, recommend that you use a high temprature igniter pyrogen to ensure ignition of the motor grain. Some of the highest temprature pyrogens contain one or more of these chemicals: Phosphorus, Titanium powder, Magnesium powder, and Aluminum powder. Questions and comments are welcomed.

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